We are officially in heaven. The sun has come out and the days are clear and wonderfully uneventful. We see less than 10 boats underway each day, and when we do they are usually filled with cheerful and interesting people from various spots around the world. We are able to buy wonderful wine, at least 10 cheeses and sausages and mostly eat meals with variations on these themes. The kids get into a groove (although I think that Stuey is just a bit stir-crazy some days) and spend their days coloring and helping Sven drive the boat, or helping us tie up as we go through locks. As often as we are able to we get the kids onto the train where they cycle or run beside the boat, easily beating those of us on the boat (who are enjoying the peace and quiet).
Wednesday is luxurious- We got stuck for a couple of hours at a broken lock, where an unexpected and wonderful sculpture garden awaits, and finally the lock operators open the lock by hand. After the day's cruising and a nice long run/ bike ride on the part of Zoya, Hannah and Stuey, we stopped in a teeny town called Le Somail which is strung out next to the river (with the loudest ducks I've ever heard) and get probably the best meal of the trip, in a little place by the canal that has a set daily menu and just a few clients. After we got back to the boat and Hannah and Eilidh are still awake, Sven and Eilidh go out to the dock and stargaze, using the ipad as a guide. It is in this town that Zoya found out that the apartment she'd booked in Barcelona fell through so her and Sven had to go stand in the middle of the street to get wifi while the kids raced through a barren park, trying to be the silliest runner of all the kids. This day was a welcome break from the rest.... Although the sleep was not the best since canal cats kept getting into loud brawls on the deck above our cabin.
Wednesday is luxurious- We got stuck for a couple of hours at a broken lock, where an unexpected and wonderful sculpture garden awaits, and finally the lock operators open the lock by hand. After the day's cruising and a nice long run/ bike ride on the part of Zoya, Hannah and Stuey, we stopped in a teeny town called Le Somail which is strung out next to the river (with the loudest ducks I've ever heard) and get probably the best meal of the trip, in a little place by the canal that has a set daily menu and just a few clients. After we got back to the boat and Hannah and Eilidh are still awake, Sven and Eilidh go out to the dock and stargaze, using the ipad as a guide. It is in this town that Zoya found out that the apartment she'd booked in Barcelona fell through so her and Sven had to go stand in the middle of the street to get wifi while the kids raced through a barren park, trying to be the silliest runner of all the kids. This day was a welcome break from the rest.... Although the sleep was not the best since canal cats kept getting into loud brawls on the deck above our cabin.
Hannah's painting from Le Somail.
Dinner out.
Lamb shanks
Beef Stew.
The highlight of the meal- creme brulee and chocolate tart. Zoya and Balika ate most of the desserts at the table. Zoya's grand day's total was up to 4. The theme for the next day: trying to get the number of desserts eaten to under 4!
ThursdayLong stretch without locks and it felt good just to drive without stopping, cruising with wine and sausage on the top deck. Stopped in Capestang for a quick walk to a church and a relaxing lunch in the square, which ended up not being relaxing after the swing chair turns out to be a bad idea and Stuey gets strapped in the stroller so he doesn’t run in the street. Later, a grumpy guy yells at us for going too fast (6 km per hour!) and Sven hollers back… then at a lock an obnoxious captain tries to cut in front of us and Sven is able to outmanoever him in a classic herring move (I am so proud!). As we head through the most famous lock (Fonserannes staircase) which is actually a series of 9 locks, we are surrounded by gaping tourists. Reluctantly we tie up in Beziers in a dirty, grimy part of town and try to get the kids out to see something but rapidly decide that this part of town (no sidewalks) was not for walks, so Zoya, Sven and myself walk through the Algerian neighborhoods to find Wifi to find out about the Barcelona apartment that we are going to in a few days (and which had fallen through). Scary. But good rotisserie chicken and flat bread & an expensive Mercedes cab ride home.
Capestang church
The staircase lock: set of nine locks!
Balika is always on the stern
.... and Patrick on the bow.
The canal Midi continued OVER the top of this river on a raised aquaduct on the way to Beziers!
When one is the captain, one does not get time to do one's hair.
Black basalt church.
Friday
Leave Beziers asap- drive to Villeneuve-les-Beziers to walk around- saw amazing trompe l’oile painting on a building and small pretty streets with Spanish flair. Coffee on square as Stuey erupted with chocolate meringue fuel. Figs and fresh cheese. Went on to Portiragnes for a walk to the black basalt (closed) church so went to café for floating island dessert, wine and relaxing lunch while Stuey and Hannah napped. Port Cassafieres for showers and pack up- the boys on the boat take a bike ride to the Mediterranean. Another chevre chaud salad and early bedtime. Nora sad about the vacation being over and very upset- Bella sternly reminds her that the vacation is not over yet.
Sven and Abba goofing around...
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