With the two families finally together (and Hannah) we fired up bright and early, ready to go experience the canal. So early in fact, that we had to tire up for 20 minutes or so until the lock operator got to work. The first lock was actually a set of 4 major locks to take us from the rather mountainous region of castelnaudary (birth place of cassoulet- white bean stew with duck and sausage) down to the valley below. Patrick and I would step out onto the side of the canal with the bow and stern lines while Sven made sure the boat stayed steady until the lock would open, taking us into the next lower lock. Watching the water rise and fall and the huge metal gates open and shut was rather awe-inspiring, especially for the kids. By the end of the 2nd group of locks Zoya was ready for some exercise so we got out and ran for a kilometer or so while the boat worked on getting through the lock (the canal’s speed limit is 6 km per hour so luckily we were able to keep up). After that Stuey and Hannah took a bike ride, then Patrick, Nora and Eilidh joined them, all while the Salsa 28 hummed gently down the canal. I don’t know what is better- being on the canal with the branches of the trees sweeping over you and watching the ducks in the grass, or being on the trail protected from some mild rain by the trees and with a view of the gentle green canal water, almost completely alone on a stunningly beautiful trail. Also wonderful was seeing all the locks- most were run by older couples, often with dogs who curiously peered at us as we made our way through the doors.
The lock operators close for lunch so we got a little time to eat pasta before most of us headed out for a little exercise. We went two different ways, all of us able to check out a little village, but none of us actually witnessed anything open. Back to the boat, we immediately fired up and got moving trying to get to a place with a restaurant before the locks closed. We were eventually unsuccessful, but happily so, as we found a picturesque place to tie up, had a fabulous simple dinner and were able to visit and take a little walk of another town (where we did not see a soul and saw mostly closed shutters). Another reminder that we are here at the wrong time (off off season) but none of us care, liking the peace and quiet and how unhurried we can all be as we head our way to the Mediterranean. Plus, things are wild enough with the giggling girls (Bella & Nora) and the little funny twosome of Eilidh and Stuey, not to mention everyone else…
Driving in the rain
As there is no internet on the boat the rest of the week will have to be little snapshots and images of things that we did, since most of the days were spent laughing, eating, trading off boat/ kid duty with running or biking alongside the canal. Patrick and Sven enjoyed taking photos together, even calling the trip a 'photography jihad'. Many of the days blurred together.... Certain things stood out though:Monday- On the way to Carcassone Hannah stops for a little walk in the grape fields with the girls and there is mass panic as we lose them. Getting into the town of Carcassone we shower and visit McDonald for their wifi (mortifying) while the girls play. Somehow we make it through a lunch at a brasserie (barely) and do some major boat shopping. In the evening we decide to head up to the old town which we had heard was beautiful (and it was) but the wind and cobblestones wore us out early. Stuey marveled at the castle walls and we all were amazed by the church with the 500 year old organ. Cold and windy evening waiting for the taxi to pick us up so Zoya started doing exercises and just as she was demonstrating a starter block exercise on the sidewalk she inadvertently mooned a family of French bikers. Hannah is nice enough to hang out with the kids while the parents grab dinner out which was a welcome break.
Tuesday morning in Carcassone was a market day so we decided to stick around. Zoya and Patrick competed in who could spend the most money. It was close- Patrick spent 80 euros on sausage but Zoya eventually won with clothes. We picked up lunch at boulangerie to heat up on the boat as we head out. It turns into a beautiful sunny day... many, many locks and over a stunning aquaduct. Tie up in Marseillette and go for walk through quiet town and eat on boat. Zoya and Hannah did 6 mile tour with Stuey. Stuey refuses to hang out with anyone but Eilidh and admits that he is in love. Eilidh acts like a little momma.
The fortified city of Carcassone
In McDonalds to email Zoya's sister that we'd all made it through the strikes. They serve wine & beer!
Blasting off to outer space.
Outside the rose window.
Any beer bigger than your head is a good beer.
brrr.... after waiting for 45 minutes in the cold (although it was fun) Zoya got the first cab back!
Tying up Stuey with wicky sticks.
It's hard being such a good cook (everything purchased at a bakery).
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