Limeuil and Jardins du Manoir D'Eyrignac

Limeuil

Friday we got a slow start to the day after seeing the intense fog and feeling the cold coming in the windows. We tried to go to an open-air folk museum but we were feeling wimpy and cold, so instead we just went out for pizza. After lunch we looked at the map and chose a river village to drive to, figuring that all have to be at least somewhat pretty. We thought Limeuil sounded nice, being on the convergence of two rivers, the Dordogne and the Vezere. Sure enough, it was, but because we got there in the eerily quiet time before 2 pm and after 12 pm we walked around in what seemed to be a ghost town (except for stray cats) for about 30 minutes without seeing a soul. The village, though was really lovely and the walk felt wonderful. And the sun came out, so we decided to head to some gardens just 3 kilometers down the road from our house, not expecting anything too exciting.

Jardins du Manoir D'Eyrignac

Finally! A picture with all 5 of us. And for some reason we all still felt the need to smile!

Driving through dense forested roads on the way to the gardens we have seen signposted around our rental for the week, none of us expected greatness. As we drove up to the summit of a low hill, though, the land seemed to open up and draw us into an area of sunshine and well-manicured grounds. The map that we received at the ticket desk proclaimed "most beautiful garden of the region" and "3 Michelin stars" and the key pointed towards 'The Enchanted Terrace', 'The Pavilion of Rest' and 'Hornbeam Alley'. We were intrigued, and armed with some kiddie scavenger hunt booklets (in French) and Bubbe's audio guide, we headed in. Sven and I struggled greatly with the kiddie guides, but somehow figured out most of the questions through a series of complicated maneuvers. Eilidh was very patient with us and we were horrified by our lack of French skills once again. Regardless, we had a wonderful, relaxing time... fabulous end to a day, a week in the Dordogne, and a wild, fun two weeks with Bubbe.

The Japanese 'white garden' (above and below)

Scattered throughout the formal gardens were expressive, primitivist works by Dietrich Klinge. The sculptures looked wood, but upon closer study were actually cast bronze (from wooden molds) which added a wonderful dimension to them, especially in the context of a garden.

Outside the chapel.

The little Romanesque chapel on the grounds of the garden- only 3 seats. Daddy was cheerfully informed, "No room for you at church!"Some of my favorite stained glass windows ever- looked like beach glass!

Tired out!

Leave it to the French- our prize for visiting 4 cultural sites in this region of France was a bottle of wine!

Leaving our house in the morning mist...

The local cemetery in St. Nathalene.

Evening playtime with Bubbe on our last night with her...

What a wonderful two weeks with Bubbe!

A lunch of epic proportions and a boat ride out of "France's most beautiful village"

All week we've been talking of a big splurge meal before Bubbe went home. We tried for a fancy dinner, but couldn't get the kids to wait until 7. Today we decided to try a place our gite owner recommended, Le Salamander. He promised a wonderful multiple course lunch lasting two hours and for ten euros (about 12 dollars), including wine. We somehow made it out of the house by noon and went straight to lunch where we were lucky to get a table. Everyone was laughing and yelling over tables at each other. It reminded us of a French King's Diner. The family team ran this way and that cheerfully refilling wine glasses and ladling soup from a large tureen. The menu was very small- you could order omelets, salads, or get the 4 course lunch of the day. Lunch of the day it was, of course.

Our first course, 'potage,' was a simple tomato soup with large tapioca balls that exploded in our mouths. Simple, wholesome and lovely. The second course, 'crudite' was half of an avocado with a simple sauce, a slice of tomato, half an egg, some endive and a roll of ham. The third course was steak with large, well-cooked french fries. Next came a choice of desserts from which we ordered a fig tart, a banana tart with chocolate sauce, a creme brulee, and fruit salad. Lastly, of course, was coffee. As we rolled out the door we all wondered how 2 hour lunch breaks (omnipresent in France, even for schools!!!) work for the French. We all felt like taking naps. But it definitely did make us eat a smaller (and later) dinner.

Forgot to get a good shot of dessert- it was too yummy!

Mandatory early morning run through the misty yard to the trampoline.

La Roque-Gageac
After lunch we took a drive down the Dordogne river to see what we could see, finally ending up in La Roque-Gageac for our 4 o'clock boat trip appointment. Poor La Roque-Gageac... it was named "prettiest village in France" by someone official a few years ago and now it victim to overly high expectations, and besieged by German (and Alaskan, apparently) tourists. Honestly, it IS lovely. It is a little hamlet of Renaissance-era houses spread out in a narrow band along the road, which is set right against the Dordogne river. Two tiny streets take a visitor up the hill, upon which a dozen or so little (and a few very big) houses are somehow set into the hillside. The walkways are lined with lemon, pomegranate, fig, coconut, etc trees and is lovely. On the boat ride we learned a few interesting tidbits about the area.... The roof tiles are made with flat chunks of slate taken from the river banks. All shops and homes on the ground floor are vacated in the winter due to flooding and all shops (except the boulangerie) close in the winter. There are 1001 chateaus in this region of France. We could spend years in France and still not see it all.
La Roque-Gageac

A common site in the Dordogne- building houses straight into the hillsides!

Rocks used for house roofs.

One of the lovely station of the cross carvings from the church in La Roque.

Our car game- finding Monkey Puzzle trees. Whoever shouts it out first gets a point... We are up to 6 for this week. Good fun!

Which chateau is this? Can't possible remember- one of the 1001.
Late-night foot rubs for spending money!

Afternoon walk-chestnut tree carnage.